Many riders don’t take the bike out in the colder months, which means we’re coming to the time of year when many of you will be
putting your bike away for the winter. Take some tips from Ramblin’ Wrench on an efficient way to do it, so you’ll be able to get
riding quickly when the pleasant weather returns in the spring:
Remove your water bottles. When time permits, give ‘em a good cleaning, and put ‘em someplace climate-controlled (and where you’ll find ‘em again!)
Remove all the electrics and electronics – lights, computer, GPS, what-have-you. Put those things someplace climate-controlled, as well. For those with rechargeable batteries, it may be a temptation to just leave the devices on the chargers, but that practice can shorten battery life (apparently heat is the enemy here). Plan to charge ‘em up in the spring.
Empty any bags you keep on the bike (seatbag, panniers, &c.). Take care of any contents: trash the stuff that needs to be trashed; clean and save the items you’ll use again next season.
Remove the bags. Clean ‘em up, and store them appropriately. (Some of the stuff you took out, might go right back in ‘em!)
Give the bike a good, all-over cleaning. Detail it well, ideally using all the chemicals (detergent for a wash, the wipe with an organic solvent to get grease and bug guts off). While you’re cleaning, and getting your eyes near parts you might not normally pay attention to, see if there’s anything worn, cracked, or out-of-line that may be worth having fixed over the winter (you should be doing this any time you clean the bike, and you should be cleaning the bike regularly!)
Clean the chain. If you have a process for this, or a commercial chain-cleaner, use it; if not, use whatever strong cleaner you have and a rag. Get all that old lubricant and road grime off the chain; what you leave might accelerate rust, even if you’re storing the bike inside.
After you’ve cleaned the chain, lubricate it. Even though you’re not riding, the chain lube will help protect the chain from the elements. While you’re at it, a bit of lube on the pivot points of your derailleurs would probably be a good idea.
Consider going over the raw metal surfaces with a protectant. I don’t have a lot of use for standard WD-40, but this is one good use for it: it will displace any moisture on your derailleurs and brake calipers, then most of it will evaporate away, leaving just enough behind that it should help protect the raw metal. (It probably won’t stand up if
you’re leaving the bike outdoors for the winter; you may want to re-apply a few times if that’s the case. And be careful not to get anything on any braking surfaces: that includes disk brake pads and rotors, or braking surfaces and pads for rim brakes.) You might also have a polish for this kind of thing (as Ramblin’ Wrench does).Check your brakes. Will they need replacement soon?
Check your tires. Is it time to replace those? Even if it’s not, fill ’em up with air and keep ’em filled. Tires will naturally lose air over the course of the winter.
If you’ve found that your bike needs services, arrange to have that stuff done soon. Bike shops are comparatively idle over the winter, and will be able to get to your service quickly (and will be grateful for your custom!). On the other hand, right after the first pleasant weekend in the spring, the waiting list for services begins to lengthen…
This list is probably TOO complete… but it gives you an idea of the things you can do so your bike is ready for you when the weather improves. It might save you an unpleasant surprise… and, as Ramblin’ Wrench says, nobody likes surprises.